Eureka Glass & Frameless Shower Doors

• UNIQUE & CUSTOM DESIGNS
• FRAMELESS, 3/8” &  1/2”  ENCLOSURES
• SEMI-FRAMELESS ENCLOSURES
• SHOWER - TUB - STEAM DOORS   
• SPECIALTY MIRROR & GLASS
• CUSTOM MIRRORS, TABLETOPS
• CABINET DOOR GLASS, & SHELVES
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• eurekaglass@suddenlinkmail.com

  SINGLE EURO PANELS... THIS  3/8" FIXED PANEL CONFIGURATION IS FOR THE SHOWER AREA LIMITED ON SPACE

  FRAMELESS CORNER SHOWERS WITH 90' RETURN ON TOP OF TUBS AND PONY WALLS---OUR VIEW.. ON FIXED WET-GLAZED PANELS AVOID PUTTING THE WRONG TYPES OF SEALANT. 100% NON-MOLDING SILICONE WILL DO THE JOB BETTER THAN A MIXTURE OF CAULKING & SILICONE.

  SINGLE FRAMELESS SHOWERDOORS WITH IN-LINE PANEL---OUR VIEW..WHEN STARTING THE JOB, USE CUSTOM GLASS SIZES TO ALLOW ONE TO CENTER THE HINGES ON A TILES, ADD DOG-LEGS TO EDGES FOR A TIGHTER FIT AND ALWAYS END DOORS & PANELS AT A GROUT LINES.

  NEO-ANGLE FRAMELESS SHOWERS--- A  FLAT OR OUT-SLOPING DAM TILTED THE WRONG WAY & WE WILL ASK TO HAVE THE TILE OR STONE REINSTALLED WITH AN 1/8" KICK BACK INTO SHOWER AREA OR WE CAN ADD A BOTTOM THRESHOLD TO ASSIST WATERSHED BACK INTO SHOWER.

  FRAMELESS STEAMER   UNITS.

  SEMI-FRAMELESS DUAL BI-PASS TUB AND SHOWER ENCLOSURES. OURS FEATURE ROUND, EURO STYLE HEADERS WITH THRU-THE-GLASS TUBULAR AND SOILD TOWEL BARS, STOP-AND-HOLD BUMPERS.

  TO NOTCH OR NOT TO  NOTCH!

  GET CLIPS! WE ALWAYS PREFER USING SMALL CLIPS OR EVEN BETTER YET, JUST ROPE TILE NOTCHES TO HOLD OUR GLASS IN PLACE. EVERY ONCE IN AWHILE CHANNEL WHEN INSTALLED CORRECTLY IS A PREFERRED METHOD DUE TO UNEVEN SLATE OR STONE.

  What is a Simply Brilliant Shower Door?? First, we start with 3/8" thick clear tempered safety glass( yes, this is the same thickness of glass you would find around a hockey rink) this is not to say we don't use 1/2" on occasion. 3/8" glass is a preferred thickness of heavy glass due to the following; 1) 3/8" glass is more clear compared to 1/2" glass' slightly greener tint. 2) 3/8" glass when used day-in day-out is lighter weight and more user friendly. 3) A swinging door built from lighter glass will self-center better, and the hardware will last longer all while achieving that heavy glass look. So if you really want a 1/2" thick heavy shower please don't let me discourage you from that. It's just our simple opinion is that 3/8" is better no matter the cost. Every door we install is custom to that opening. If there is a grout line around 30" the desired door size, We will adjust the size of the door to meet that grout-line. What about the hinges? The placement of our hinges is anywhere from 5" to 10" from the top or bottom, We just don't like to see the hinge's overlapping a grout line and it's common for us to adjust the height of our door to avoid installing a hinge over a grout line..the standard or common height for these types of door starts at around 72" tall. The desired height if your shower door require's a header would start at 77". Also, you may notice almost all of the showers we install have a clear polycarbonate swipe on the bottom only. The reason I mention this is because some Glaziers put the swipe material on the sides as well to seal in the water. This method is installation means the door will hit against the polycarbonate when closing and not allow the shower door to open in-wards. We think just allowing an 1/8" gap between the glass is better. This way there is no CLUNK every time you close the door. Now than Seals maybe should be used & tolerated when the customer has wood floors right outside the doors especially if there is'NT a good slop on the dam leading the water back into the shower or would'NT you rather open the door in-wards after showering so the water drips inside the shower? Whatever I know I'm rambling on but some people have a need to hear this stuff.